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"De gustibus non est disputandum." - There is no disputing matters of taste.

Coming attraction

February will be BORDEAUX MONTH.  We'll explore why Bordeaux is often referred to as the "King of Wines."

Haiti Relief

Partners in Health, a non-profit organization dedicated to providing medical care and food to poor persons in Haiti, has been on-the-ground in Haiti for over 20 years.  You can donate to Partners in Health to help Haiti relief operations at pih.org.  Other options include RedCross.org and ClintonBushHaitiFund.org.

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Welcome!  This blog is focused on finding value-priced wines that offer excellent taste and quality.                      Please feel free to add comments about the posts and make suggestions for other excellent wines that can be purchased for under $25.

Format

Most of the posts will focus on a single wine.  Every couple weeks, I'll try to summarize all of the wines discussed so far for a particular type of wine like Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Occasionally, I'll offer a news article or a "How to" article on various topics (tasting wine, collecting wine, storing wine, etc.).  The posts are tagged with keywords that are listed on the right side below.
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts

Sunday, February 28, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 10 - final summary

Today is the last day of February and the last day of "Bordeaux month."  Using a very broad brush, there are three major areas to search for high-QPR Bordeaux wines:  the Left Bank, the Right Bank, and the region containing Graves and Pessac-Leognan.

Understanding Bordeaux wines is difficult because, within each of the three major areas, there are numerous sub-regions that appear on wine labels.  There are the most famous appellations like Pomerol and St. Emilion on the Right Bank, and Margaux, St. Estephe, Pauillac, and St. Julien on the Left Bank.

During the month of February, we've taken a tour of the Bordeaux region and visited many of the famous and the lesser-known appellations.  In each area, we've identified several typical wines that are priced under $40 a bottle.  Sometimes, you can find the more expensive wines on sale under $25 (our normal price limit in this blog).

What are the lessons learned from our focus on Bordeaux this month?  Here are a couple:

1.  The wine from each region has its own style and typical characteristics.  Within each region of Bordeaux, there are numerous micro-climates that affect how wines develop.

2.  Vintages are very important.  A wise strategy, to obtain the best value-priced Bordeaux wines for your dollar, is to concentrate on the exceptional vintages like 2005, 2000, 1995, 1990, 1982, etc.  There is speculation that 2009 will be another excellent vintage.  The initial results from barrel-tasting the 2009 wines will be available in a couple months.

3.  The French contend that "terroir" is the single most important factor that produces a good wine.  The term, terroir, includes the type of soil, the location (elevation, hillside vs. next to river, etc.), the type and ages of the vines, the micro-climate, and other factors.

4.  The skill of the winemaker and the methods used at each stage of the wine-making process can also have a profound effect on the taste and quality of the wine that is produced -- from the initial pruning of the vines and reduction of leaves through the growing season, to the final selection and blending of different vats of wine from different vineyards to produce the final wine in barrels.

5.  Many Bordeaux wines need time in the cellar before you can drink and enjoy them.  For persons who buy the most expensive and longest-lasting wines from Margaux, Pomerol, etc., should plan on 10-15 years in the cellar and the wines will last for 30-40 years or more.  For wines costing under $25, you can usually drink them soon after bottling, if you decant them and let them breath for a couple hours before serving.

6.  To obtain the best wine for your dollar, searching for heavily-discounted wines on sale can be very effective.  For example, if you like wines from the Margaux region, would you rather purchase a "full-price" wine for $20 -- or a $40 bottle of wine that is on sale for $20?  Of course, you need to taste a wide range of wines and determine which wines you like best because personal taste is most important.  Most times, however, your preferred wine at the $40 price point will be clearly superior to any of your favorite wines at the $20 price point.  Even if you like the $20 wine best, you can buy many more bottles for the same dollars if you can find your preferred wine on sale.

In summary, I find Bordeaux to be a fascinating wine region.  Although it takes some time to get familiar with the different sub-regions, Bordeaux offers vast potential for enjoying excellent wine over many years.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 9 - summary of St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and Haut-Medoc

Here is a quick summary of the wines that were discussed for St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and the Haut-Medoc:

$43 - La Tour Carnet (91 points from Robert Parker)
$40 - La Dame de Montrose (88 points from Robert Parker)
$39 - Reserve de la Contesse Lalande
$36 - Chateau Hortevie (88 points from Robert Parker)
$35 - Chasse-Spleen (88 points from Robert Parker)
$32 - Chateau Coufran
$32 - Belgrave (89 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Lalande-Borie (90 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Reignac (90 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Meyney (86 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - Marquis de Calon
$30 - Clarke (90 points from Robert Parker)
$28 - Du Glana
$28 - Charmail (90 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Clement-Pichon
$27 - Lanessan (90 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Conseiller (91 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Les Grands Chenes (91 points from Robert Parker)
$26 - Rollan de By (90 points from Robert Parker)
$22 - d'Escurac (89 points from Robert Parker)
$19 - Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes (89 points from Robert Parker)
$19 - Beaumont
$18 - Verdigan
$17 - Sorbey
$17 - Caronne St. Gemme
$17 - La Tour St. Bonnet (88 points from Robert Parker)
$16 - Bernadotte
$13 - Haut-Nadeau
$12 - Haut-Belian "Prestige"

For wines with a list price under $25, the best are La Tour St. Bonnet, Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes, and d'Escurac (from a Robert Parker points perspective).  I purchased Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes on sale for $16 from J.J. Buckley, and it was definitely a high-QPR wine IMO.

Of the two lowest-priced wines, Haut-Nadeau has more body and somewhat more structure and tannins, but I think the Haut-Belian "Prestige," with good fruit and toasty oak flavors, is also a very good everyday table wine.  K&L Wines has noted that Haut-Nadeau was their #1 seller among all 2005 Bordeaux wines (and they are a premier wine shop for Bordeaux).  Last year, K&L also offered the Haut-Belian "Prestige" for $9.49 a bottle for their wine club members -- which represented incredible value for that price IMO.

Cru Bourgeois wines

In the Medoc, "Cru Bourgeois" is a collective name that refers to approximately 200 chateaux that were not classified among the elite estates.  The quality of the Cru Bourgeois wines ranges all the way from mediocre to excellent.  Since we have focused on wines costing less than $40, we have already identified many of the better Cru Bourgeois wines in the Medoc.  It should be noted that there are other petit chateaux in the Medoc that are also excellent, but not identified as cru bourgeois.  Here are 42 of the Cru Bourgeois producers that are commonly identified as excellent:

Poujeaux, Chasse-Spleen, Siran, Haut-Marbuzet, Lebegorce Zede,
Ormes-de Pez, Phelan Segur, Potensac, d'Angludet, Fourcas-Hosten,
Meyney, Maucaillou, du Breuil, Les Ormes-Sorbet, Sociando-Mallut,
Senejac, Bournac, Griviere, du Moulin Rouge, Clarke, Coufran,
Gloria, du Glana, Greysac, Paloumey, Ramafort, Rollan de By,
La Tour de By, Caronne St. Gemme, d'Escurac, Cambon la Pelouse,
Beaumont, Clement-Pichon, d'Arche, Charmail, Les Grands Chenes,
Lanessan, Verdigan, d'Aurilhac, Gironville, Larrivaux, and Poitevin.

2005 Chateau Haut-Belian "Prestige," Entre Deux Mers, Bordeaux

This is the final wine that I'll discuss for the Bordeaux region.  In addition to the Left Bank, the Right Bank, and Graves/Pessac-Leognan, there is a region to the southeast of the city of Bordeaux that is located between the Dordogne River and the Garonne River.  This geographic area is called "Entre Deux Mers" (or between two seas).  There are many wine producers in this area that produce generic Bordeaux wine.  However, there are some petit chateaux that produce wine of high quality at very reasonable prices.  The list price of the 2005 Haut-Belian is $12, and I think it's a smooth, uncomplicated, good-tasting wine -- with good fruit and toasty oak -- that you can drink and enjoy as soon as it is bottled.  The anticipated maturity is short, only 3-4 years, but it is one of the most accessible wines in an excellent vintage like 2005.

2005 Haut-Nadeau, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

From Robert Parker, "A solidly-made Bordeaux Superieur that represents good value, Haut-Nadeau is best drunk in its first two to four years."  The list price is $13.

2005 Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

This wine received 89 points from Robert Parker, "Made from a blend of half Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this sensational wine exhibits excellent texture, medium body, and soft tannins.  It is a beauty to enjoy over 5-6 years."  The list price is $19.

2005 Chateau Hortevie, St. Julien, Bordeaux

This wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "If St. Julien produced a fruit bomb, this would be it.  Impressively endowed with medium to full body and beautiful purity, this is fresh, tannic and vibrant.  It should drink well for 10-15 years, or longer."  The list price is $35.

2005 Conseiller, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Rpbert Parker, "Wow!  What a sensational wine from such a humble terroir.  Inky/purple to the rim, with fabulous smoky, black raspberry, cassis, licorice, black truffles, and pain grille aromas, this concentrated sleeper of the vintage is the creation of the young visionary, Jean-Philippe Janoueix.  It should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 5-7 years."  The list price is $27.

2005 Reignac, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

The category of "Bordeaux Superieur" indicates that the wine is a Bordeaux blend without specific appellation.  It also indicates higher quality than other wines that are just designated as Bordeaux wines.  For many vintages, Reignac is perhaps the most acclaimed Bordeaux Superieur wine.  It received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Possibly the finest Reignac I have ever tasted from proprietor Yves Vatelot, this superlative blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon is treated like a spoiled child, aged on its lees, and bottled unfiltered.  There are ober 16,000 cases of this cuvee, which should be uncommonly long-lived for a wine of this pedigree.  Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by a sweet nose of blackberries, cherries, smoke and pain grille.  Deep, full-bodied, moderately tannin, fresh, and well-delineated, with 14% natural alcohol, it should drink well for 10-12 years."  The list price is $31.

2005 La Tour Carnet, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Robert Parker, "Shrewd consumers should be stocking up on this wine as it is both sensational and realistically priced.  Once one of the most appallingly mediocre classified growths of the Medoc, this estate's resurrection started around 2000, hitting its full stride in 2001, and proprietor Bernard Magrez continues to build on that success.  A blend of nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the inky/blue/purple 2005 possesses a beautiful nose of graphite, flowers, creme de cassis, incense, and a touch of new barriques.  Full-bodied with crisp acidity, sweet tannin, and excellent definition and freshness, this sensational sleeper of the vintage should be at its finest in 8-10 years, with anticipated maturity from 2015 to 2030."  The list price is $43.

Friday, February 26, 2010

2005 Chateau Coufran, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 89 points from Wine Spectator, "Has crushed blackberry, licorice, and light toasty oak on the nose.  Full-bodied, with polished tannins and focused blackberry and currant on the palate, with a hint of vanilla and spices.  A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon."  The list price is $32.

2005 Chateau Rollan de By, Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Readers looking for a cru bourgeois made like a classified growth should check out this offering from proprietor Jean Guyon and consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud.  The 2005 is a beautifully pure, medium to full-bodied effort displaying notes of unsmoked cigar tibacco interwoven with cedar, black currant, white chocolate, and a hint of new saddle leather.  Enjoy this charming, seriously endowed Medoc over the next 12-15 years."  The list price is $26.

2005 Cahateau Meyney, St. Estephe, Bordeaux

The wines produced at Chateau Meyney have a fairly big style, with good fruit and excellent aging potential.  The 2005 vintage received 86 points from Robert Parker and 90 points from Wine Spectator, "Aromas of currant and fresh flowers follow through to a medium-to-full body, with chewy tannins and a slightly woody finish, but the fruit comes through."  The list price is $31.

2005 Chasse-Spleen, Moulis, Bordeaux

One of the two finest estates in Moulis (the other being Poujeaux), Chasse-Spleen's large vineyard is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot.  This wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "Deep plum/ruby colored to the rim, the medium-bodied 2005 Chasse-Spleen offers up aromas of smoke, damp earth, charcoal, black cherries, and currants.  The tannins dominate at present, so purchasers should cellar it for 5 years, and consume it over the next two decades."  The list price is $35.

2005 Chateau Clarke, Listrac, Bordeaux

Chateau Clarke has emerged as one of the best estates in Listrac.  The wines are dark, tannic, rich and concentrated.  A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2005 vintage received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Dark ruby in color, with licorice, black coffee, and ripe berry.  Full-bodied, with velvety tannins, and mineral and berry flavors.  Has a lovely texture and bright acidity.  Needs a couple years in the cellar."  The list price is $30.

2005 Les Grands Chenes, Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Robert Parker, "This superb 25-acre Medoc estate (owned by Bordeaux visionary Bernard Magrez) produces a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that is much better than its pedigree would suggest.  A major sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 reveals aromas of chocolate, cassis, smoke, herbs and meat, followed by a full-bodied, well-endowed, impressively constituted wine with sweet tannin, as well as loads of character and personality.  Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years."  The list price is $27.

2005 Caronne St. Gemme, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Caronne St. Gemme is a value-priced, cru bourgeois producer in Haut-Medoc.  The 2005 vintage received 91 points from Wine Spectator, "Offers notes of raisin and dried fruit, with very ripe fruit aromas and coffee and oak undertones.  Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish.  I's pumped up, but I like the flamboyant character."  The list price is $17.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

2005 Sorbey, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Another very fine 2005, Sorbey is located near Cussac in the Haut-Medoc.  A blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot, the 2005 Sorbey shows a deep purple color, nice ripe fruit aromas, and a sweet palate entry.  Some cherry and eucalyptus flavors, with ripe, round tannins.  The list price is $17.

2005 Bernadotte, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The 2005 Bernadotte has a bright ruby-red color and aromas of raspberries, flowers and mint.  From the Wine Spectator, "Tea leaf aromas, with raspberry and blackberry, lead to a medium to full body, with soft, silky tannins and a pretty aftertaste."  The list price is $16.

2005 Verdigan Rouge, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Verdigan is a cru bourgeois estate located on the boundary of St. Estephe.  The 2005 vintage is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc.  From Robert Parker, "A consistently well-made cru bourgeois, the 2005 Verdigan exhibits a deep ruby color and a nice earthy nose with hints of burning embers intermixed with black fruits, herbs and spice.  The wine displays moderate tannins, medium body, good length and ripeness. Drink it over the next 7-8 years."  The list price is $18.