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"De gustibus non est disputandum." - There is no disputing matters of taste.

Coming attraction

February will be BORDEAUX MONTH.  We'll explore why Bordeaux is often referred to as the "King of Wines."

Haiti Relief

Partners in Health, a non-profit organization dedicated to providing medical care and food to poor persons in Haiti, has been on-the-ground in Haiti for over 20 years.  You can donate to Partners in Health to help Haiti relief operations at pih.org.  Other options include RedCross.org and ClintonBushHaitiFund.org.

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Welcome!  This blog is focused on finding value-priced wines that offer excellent taste and quality.                      Please feel free to add comments about the posts and make suggestions for other excellent wines that can be purchased for under $25.

Format

Most of the posts will focus on a single wine.  Every couple weeks, I'll try to summarize all of the wines discussed so far for a particular type of wine like Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Occasionally, I'll offer a news article or a "How to" article on various topics (tasting wine, collecting wine, storing wine, etc.).  The posts are tagged with keywords that are listed on the right side below.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 10 - final summary

Today is the last day of February and the last day of "Bordeaux month."  Using a very broad brush, there are three major areas to search for high-QPR Bordeaux wines:  the Left Bank, the Right Bank, and the region containing Graves and Pessac-Leognan.

Understanding Bordeaux wines is difficult because, within each of the three major areas, there are numerous sub-regions that appear on wine labels.  There are the most famous appellations like Pomerol and St. Emilion on the Right Bank, and Margaux, St. Estephe, Pauillac, and St. Julien on the Left Bank.

During the month of February, we've taken a tour of the Bordeaux region and visited many of the famous and the lesser-known appellations.  In each area, we've identified several typical wines that are priced under $40 a bottle.  Sometimes, you can find the more expensive wines on sale under $25 (our normal price limit in this blog).

What are the lessons learned from our focus on Bordeaux this month?  Here are a couple:

1.  The wine from each region has its own style and typical characteristics.  Within each region of Bordeaux, there are numerous micro-climates that affect how wines develop.

2.  Vintages are very important.  A wise strategy, to obtain the best value-priced Bordeaux wines for your dollar, is to concentrate on the exceptional vintages like 2005, 2000, 1995, 1990, 1982, etc.  There is speculation that 2009 will be another excellent vintage.  The initial results from barrel-tasting the 2009 wines will be available in a couple months.

3.  The French contend that "terroir" is the single most important factor that produces a good wine.  The term, terroir, includes the type of soil, the location (elevation, hillside vs. next to river, etc.), the type and ages of the vines, the micro-climate, and other factors.

4.  The skill of the winemaker and the methods used at each stage of the wine-making process can also have a profound effect on the taste and quality of the wine that is produced -- from the initial pruning of the vines and reduction of leaves through the growing season, to the final selection and blending of different vats of wine from different vineyards to produce the final wine in barrels.

5.  Many Bordeaux wines need time in the cellar before you can drink and enjoy them.  For persons who buy the most expensive and longest-lasting wines from Margaux, Pomerol, etc., should plan on 10-15 years in the cellar and the wines will last for 30-40 years or more.  For wines costing under $25, you can usually drink them soon after bottling, if you decant them and let them breath for a couple hours before serving.

6.  To obtain the best wine for your dollar, searching for heavily-discounted wines on sale can be very effective.  For example, if you like wines from the Margaux region, would you rather purchase a "full-price" wine for $20 -- or a $40 bottle of wine that is on sale for $20?  Of course, you need to taste a wide range of wines and determine which wines you like best because personal taste is most important.  Most times, however, your preferred wine at the $40 price point will be clearly superior to any of your favorite wines at the $20 price point.  Even if you like the $20 wine best, you can buy many more bottles for the same dollars if you can find your preferred wine on sale.

In summary, I find Bordeaux to be a fascinating wine region.  Although it takes some time to get familiar with the different sub-regions, Bordeaux offers vast potential for enjoying excellent wine over many years.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 9 - summary of St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and Haut-Medoc

Here is a quick summary of the wines that were discussed for St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and the Haut-Medoc:

$43 - La Tour Carnet (91 points from Robert Parker)
$40 - La Dame de Montrose (88 points from Robert Parker)
$39 - Reserve de la Contesse Lalande
$36 - Chateau Hortevie (88 points from Robert Parker)
$35 - Chasse-Spleen (88 points from Robert Parker)
$32 - Chateau Coufran
$32 - Belgrave (89 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Lalande-Borie (90 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Reignac (90 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Meyney (86 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - Marquis de Calon
$30 - Clarke (90 points from Robert Parker)
$28 - Du Glana
$28 - Charmail (90 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Clement-Pichon
$27 - Lanessan (90 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Conseiller (91 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Les Grands Chenes (91 points from Robert Parker)
$26 - Rollan de By (90 points from Robert Parker)
$22 - d'Escurac (89 points from Robert Parker)
$19 - Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes (89 points from Robert Parker)
$19 - Beaumont
$18 - Verdigan
$17 - Sorbey
$17 - Caronne St. Gemme
$17 - La Tour St. Bonnet (88 points from Robert Parker)
$16 - Bernadotte
$13 - Haut-Nadeau
$12 - Haut-Belian "Prestige"

For wines with a list price under $25, the best are La Tour St. Bonnet, Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes, and d'Escurac (from a Robert Parker points perspective).  I purchased Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes on sale for $16 from J.J. Buckley, and it was definitely a high-QPR wine IMO.

Of the two lowest-priced wines, Haut-Nadeau has more body and somewhat more structure and tannins, but I think the Haut-Belian "Prestige," with good fruit and toasty oak flavors, is also a very good everyday table wine.  K&L Wines has noted that Haut-Nadeau was their #1 seller among all 2005 Bordeaux wines (and they are a premier wine shop for Bordeaux).  Last year, K&L also offered the Haut-Belian "Prestige" for $9.49 a bottle for their wine club members -- which represented incredible value for that price IMO.

Cru Bourgeois wines

In the Medoc, "Cru Bourgeois" is a collective name that refers to approximately 200 chateaux that were not classified among the elite estates.  The quality of the Cru Bourgeois wines ranges all the way from mediocre to excellent.  Since we have focused on wines costing less than $40, we have already identified many of the better Cru Bourgeois wines in the Medoc.  It should be noted that there are other petit chateaux in the Medoc that are also excellent, but not identified as cru bourgeois.  Here are 42 of the Cru Bourgeois producers that are commonly identified as excellent:

Poujeaux, Chasse-Spleen, Siran, Haut-Marbuzet, Lebegorce Zede,
Ormes-de Pez, Phelan Segur, Potensac, d'Angludet, Fourcas-Hosten,
Meyney, Maucaillou, du Breuil, Les Ormes-Sorbet, Sociando-Mallut,
Senejac, Bournac, Griviere, du Moulin Rouge, Clarke, Coufran,
Gloria, du Glana, Greysac, Paloumey, Ramafort, Rollan de By,
La Tour de By, Caronne St. Gemme, d'Escurac, Cambon la Pelouse,
Beaumont, Clement-Pichon, d'Arche, Charmail, Les Grands Chenes,
Lanessan, Verdigan, d'Aurilhac, Gironville, Larrivaux, and Poitevin.

2005 Chateau Haut-Belian "Prestige," Entre Deux Mers, Bordeaux

This is the final wine that I'll discuss for the Bordeaux region.  In addition to the Left Bank, the Right Bank, and Graves/Pessac-Leognan, there is a region to the southeast of the city of Bordeaux that is located between the Dordogne River and the Garonne River.  This geographic area is called "Entre Deux Mers" (or between two seas).  There are many wine producers in this area that produce generic Bordeaux wine.  However, there are some petit chateaux that produce wine of high quality at very reasonable prices.  The list price of the 2005 Haut-Belian is $12, and I think it's a smooth, uncomplicated, good-tasting wine -- with good fruit and toasty oak -- that you can drink and enjoy as soon as it is bottled.  The anticipated maturity is short, only 3-4 years, but it is one of the most accessible wines in an excellent vintage like 2005.

2005 Haut-Nadeau, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

From Robert Parker, "A solidly-made Bordeaux Superieur that represents good value, Haut-Nadeau is best drunk in its first two to four years."  The list price is $13.

2005 Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

This wine received 89 points from Robert Parker, "Made from a blend of half Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this sensational wine exhibits excellent texture, medium body, and soft tannins.  It is a beauty to enjoy over 5-6 years."  The list price is $19.

2005 Chateau Hortevie, St. Julien, Bordeaux

This wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "If St. Julien produced a fruit bomb, this would be it.  Impressively endowed with medium to full body and beautiful purity, this is fresh, tannic and vibrant.  It should drink well for 10-15 years, or longer."  The list price is $35.

2005 Conseiller, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Rpbert Parker, "Wow!  What a sensational wine from such a humble terroir.  Inky/purple to the rim, with fabulous smoky, black raspberry, cassis, licorice, black truffles, and pain grille aromas, this concentrated sleeper of the vintage is the creation of the young visionary, Jean-Philippe Janoueix.  It should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 5-7 years."  The list price is $27.

2005 Reignac, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux

The category of "Bordeaux Superieur" indicates that the wine is a Bordeaux blend without specific appellation.  It also indicates higher quality than other wines that are just designated as Bordeaux wines.  For many vintages, Reignac is perhaps the most acclaimed Bordeaux Superieur wine.  It received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Possibly the finest Reignac I have ever tasted from proprietor Yves Vatelot, this superlative blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon is treated like a spoiled child, aged on its lees, and bottled unfiltered.  There are ober 16,000 cases of this cuvee, which should be uncommonly long-lived for a wine of this pedigree.  Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by a sweet nose of blackberries, cherries, smoke and pain grille.  Deep, full-bodied, moderately tannin, fresh, and well-delineated, with 14% natural alcohol, it should drink well for 10-12 years."  The list price is $31.

2005 La Tour Carnet, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Robert Parker, "Shrewd consumers should be stocking up on this wine as it is both sensational and realistically priced.  Once one of the most appallingly mediocre classified growths of the Medoc, this estate's resurrection started around 2000, hitting its full stride in 2001, and proprietor Bernard Magrez continues to build on that success.  A blend of nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the inky/blue/purple 2005 possesses a beautiful nose of graphite, flowers, creme de cassis, incense, and a touch of new barriques.  Full-bodied with crisp acidity, sweet tannin, and excellent definition and freshness, this sensational sleeper of the vintage should be at its finest in 8-10 years, with anticipated maturity from 2015 to 2030."  The list price is $43.

Friday, February 26, 2010

2005 Chateau Coufran, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 89 points from Wine Spectator, "Has crushed blackberry, licorice, and light toasty oak on the nose.  Full-bodied, with polished tannins and focused blackberry and currant on the palate, with a hint of vanilla and spices.  A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon."  The list price is $32.

2005 Chateau Rollan de By, Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Readers looking for a cru bourgeois made like a classified growth should check out this offering from proprietor Jean Guyon and consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud.  The 2005 is a beautifully pure, medium to full-bodied effort displaying notes of unsmoked cigar tibacco interwoven with cedar, black currant, white chocolate, and a hint of new saddle leather.  Enjoy this charming, seriously endowed Medoc over the next 12-15 years."  The list price is $26.

2005 Cahateau Meyney, St. Estephe, Bordeaux

The wines produced at Chateau Meyney have a fairly big style, with good fruit and excellent aging potential.  The 2005 vintage received 86 points from Robert Parker and 90 points from Wine Spectator, "Aromas of currant and fresh flowers follow through to a medium-to-full body, with chewy tannins and a slightly woody finish, but the fruit comes through."  The list price is $31.

2005 Chasse-Spleen, Moulis, Bordeaux

One of the two finest estates in Moulis (the other being Poujeaux), Chasse-Spleen's large vineyard is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot.  This wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "Deep plum/ruby colored to the rim, the medium-bodied 2005 Chasse-Spleen offers up aromas of smoke, damp earth, charcoal, black cherries, and currants.  The tannins dominate at present, so purchasers should cellar it for 5 years, and consume it over the next two decades."  The list price is $35.

2005 Chateau Clarke, Listrac, Bordeaux

Chateau Clarke has emerged as one of the best estates in Listrac.  The wines are dark, tannic, rich and concentrated.  A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2005 vintage received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Dark ruby in color, with licorice, black coffee, and ripe berry.  Full-bodied, with velvety tannins, and mineral and berry flavors.  Has a lovely texture and bright acidity.  Needs a couple years in the cellar."  The list price is $30.

2005 Les Grands Chenes, Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Robert Parker, "This superb 25-acre Medoc estate (owned by Bordeaux visionary Bernard Magrez) produces a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that is much better than its pedigree would suggest.  A major sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 reveals aromas of chocolate, cassis, smoke, herbs and meat, followed by a full-bodied, well-endowed, impressively constituted wine with sweet tannin, as well as loads of character and personality.  Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years."  The list price is $27.

2005 Caronne St. Gemme, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Caronne St. Gemme is a value-priced, cru bourgeois producer in Haut-Medoc.  The 2005 vintage received 91 points from Wine Spectator, "Offers notes of raisin and dried fruit, with very ripe fruit aromas and coffee and oak undertones.  Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish.  I's pumped up, but I like the flamboyant character."  The list price is $17.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

2005 Sorbey, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Another very fine 2005, Sorbey is located near Cussac in the Haut-Medoc.  A blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot, the 2005 Sorbey shows a deep purple color, nice ripe fruit aromas, and a sweet palate entry.  Some cherry and eucalyptus flavors, with ripe, round tannins.  The list price is $17.

2005 Bernadotte, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The 2005 Bernadotte has a bright ruby-red color and aromas of raspberries, flowers and mint.  From the Wine Spectator, "Tea leaf aromas, with raspberry and blackberry, lead to a medium to full body, with soft, silky tannins and a pretty aftertaste."  The list price is $16.

2005 Verdigan Rouge, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Verdigan is a cru bourgeois estate located on the boundary of St. Estephe.  The 2005 vintage is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc.  From Robert Parker, "A consistently well-made cru bourgeois, the 2005 Verdigan exhibits a deep ruby color and a nice earthy nose with hints of burning embers intermixed with black fruits, herbs and spice.  The wine displays moderate tannins, medium body, good length and ripeness. Drink it over the next 7-8 years."  The list price is $18.

2005 Chateau Beaumont, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The 2005 vintage was one of the best ever for this petit chateau, and the wine has been identified as a value-priced Bordeaux and sleeper of the vintage.  The 2005 Beaumont is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 51% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot.  Toasty oak aromas and red fruit flavors.  An elegant, easy drinker.  The list price is $19.

2005 Clement Pichon, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Clement Pichon is a member of the Biturica Group and a rising star in Haut-Medoc.  From the Wine Spectator, "Plenty of blackberry and wet earth aromas follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with soft tannins.  Good sweetness and a fresh finish.  Maturity 2010 to 2015."  The list price is $27.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

2005 Chateau Lanessan, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "A big-time sleeper of the vintage, this may be the finest Lanessan I have ever tasted.  Shrewd Bordeaux buyers have long followed this excellent Medoc estate, whose wine can easily be confused with a St. Julien or Pauillac.  The 2005 is dark plum/purple-tinged with a beautiful nose of new saddle leather, spice box, black currants, and a hint of cigar tobacco, it offers medium body, admirable richness, decent acidity, and ripe tannin.  Although it will be drinkable in 4-5 years, these wines have an excellent track record of evolving for two decades or more."  The list price is $27.

2005 La Tour St. Bonnet, Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "Reminiscent of a mini-Grand Puy Lacoste with its cassis fruit, attractive aromatics, lush, sweet, medium-bodied flavors, and inky/ruby/purple color, the 2005 Tour St. Bonnet sells for a fraction of the price of the Grand-Puy-Lacoste.  Drink it over the next 5-7 years."  The list price is $17.

2005 Chateau d'Escurac, Medoc, Bordeaux

Robert Parker rated this wine with 89 points, "One of the finest cru bourgeois in the Medoc, this impeccably made 2005 exhibits notions of black olives, black currants, spice box, and cedar in its complex, classically-styled bouquet.  Medium-bodied with excellent purity, richness and power, sweet tannin, beautiful fruit, and admirable depth, this is a sleeper of the vintage.  Drink it over the next decade."  The list price is $22.

2005 Chateau Belgrave, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 89 points from Robert Parker, "An impressive effort from this Haut-Medoc property, the 2005 Belgrave possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as notes of damp earth, cedar, herbs, black cherries, and currants, with good acidity, moderately high tannin, an admirable, layered texture, and fine purity and overall balance.  Anticipated maturity from 2013 to 2022."  The list price is $32.

2005 Chateau Charmail, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The 2005 Charmail received 90 points from Robert Parker, "One of the most consistent Cru Bourgeois over the last 10-15 years, this blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot achieved 13% natural alcohol.  Its inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by an intense perfume of flowers, blue and black fruits, licorice, and subtle wood.  The 2005 is more powerful, richly concentrated, and nuanced than usual.  With decent acidity, moderate tannin, and a blockbuster finish, it should drink well for 10-12 years."  The list price is $28.

Monday, February 22, 2010

2005 du Glana, St. Julien, Bordeaux

This is an old-vine St. Julien that offers a lot of wine for a reasonable price.  This estate is surrounded by the elite properties of Talbot, Beychevelle, Branaire-Ducru, and Ducru-Beaucaillou in St. Estephe.  The 2005 vintage of du Glana received 90 points from Wine Spectator, "Intense aromas of licorice, blackberries and flowers lead to a full-bodied palate, with rich, juicy, velvety tannins.  Long and delicious.  Very generous."  The list price is $28.

2005 Reserve de la Comtesse Lalande, Pauillac, Bordeaux

The second wine from Pichon-Longueville-Lalande, and made with all the care of the first label, this wine is elegant and refined.  A blend of 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 11% Petit Verdot, this wine received 89 points from Wine Spectator, "Floral, blackberry, and mineral on the nose.  Full-bodoed, with supersilky tannins and a pretty finish of mineral and fruit.  Very reserved and refined for a second wine."  The list price is $39.

2005 Marquis de Calon, St. Estephe, Bordeaux

The second wine of the Calon Sugur, this classic St. Estephe shows aromas of sweet red fruit and touches of lavender and spice.  Ripe and soft for the appellation, this wine drinks well now with an hour of decanting.  Calon Segur made a very well-regarded St. Estephe in 2005, and the second wine shows similar quality at a fraction of the price.  Clean and sweet with very bright fruit and mineral in a long, firm package.  Some believe that this second wine has just as much finesse as Calon Segur but without all the powerful tannins.  The list price is $30.

2005 La Dame de Montrose, St. Estephe, Bordeaux

The second wine from Chateau Montrose in St. Estephe, this wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "A sleeper selection, the estate's second wine, is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46 % Merlot.  Possibly the finest second wine Montrose has yet produced, it is a full-bodied effort with supple tannins as well as surprising power, richness and expansiveness.  It will provide gorgeous drinking during its first 15 years of life."  The list price is $40.

2005 Lalande-Borie, St. Julien, Bordeaux

Today, we'll discuss some wines from the elite appellations of St. Estephe, Pauillac, and St. Julien.  The 2005 Lalande-Borie from St. Julien is one of the best tasting, value-priced wines from those three appellations.  It received 90 points from Robert Parker, "A sleeper of the vintage as well as the finest wine I have yet tasted from this estate.  Borie has turned out a graceful, charming, seductive St. Julien possessing a dense purple color and sweet cassis fruit intermixed with forest, floor, spice box, and earth characteristics.  This is a beauty to drink over the next decade."  The list price is $31.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 8 - St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and Haut-Medoc

This week we'll discuss Left Bank wines found in the northern Medoc region.  St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estephe are three of the most elite appellations on the Left Bank.  They are located close together on the west side of the Gironde River about 25 miles north of Margaux.  The large region surrounding these three appellations is called Haut-Medoc and contains hundreds of petit chateaux that produce good to excellent Bordeaux wines.

As with other areas on the Left Bank, there are gravel-type soils at St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and Haut-Medoc that are very good for Cabernet Sauvignon and produce wines that are well-structured, Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends with firm textures and fairly high tannin levels.  Many of these wines need cellar time for integration of the tannins, and the wines from the elite estates are among the longest-lasting wines made in Bordeaux.  The taste profile for these wines includes cherry, currants, cassis, and black fruit, with notes of cedar and spice.

Trip to Trader Joe's

Whenever I go to Costco, Safeway, or Trader Joe's, I always browse the wine aisle to see what's on sale.  I've mentioned before that you have to be careful at these retail outlets because they post "list prices" and "sale prices" that indicate significant savings.  However, many times I've found that the "list prices" are artificially inflated to make the savings appear much larger than they actually are.  For example, Trader Joe's had the 2007 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay on sale for $10.99 yesterday.  Although $10.99 is below the "list price" or "suggested retail price," it is not that much of a discount.  Costco has had this wine on sale for $8.99 several times, and I've seen it a few times at that price at Safeway (Safeway gives an additional 10% off if you buy six or more bottles of wine).

Trader Joe's usually has a lot of Australian wine at very good prices.  Yesterday, they had Jacob's Creek Shiraz for $4.99 and Yellow Tail Shiraz (and all of the Yellow Tail wines) for $5.49 a bottle.  The Penfolds Koonunga Hills Shiraz was $8.99.  You have to try them to see what you like best, but they are very good value for the money IMO.

All of the Two Buck Chuck wines (Charles Shaw Chardonnay, Shiraz, etc.) are also available at Trader Joe's.  A friend of mine swears by the Charles Shaw Shiraz, and it is his regular weekday table wine.  Although I've never been impressed with any of the Two Buck Chuck wines, it's certainly inexpensive to try them out to see if there's a red or white wine you think is acceptable for an everyday drinker.

The best value at Trader Joe's yesterday was the 2006 Beringer "Third Century" Chardonnay that was on sale for $3.99 a bottle.  I bought a bottle and think it's definitely a potential candidate for a weekday white table wine.  I spoke to someone in their wine department and they bought a ton of it to be able to offer it at that price.

Trader Joe's also had the 2007 Perrin "Reserve" Cotes du Rhone for $6.99 a bottle (list price $12).  I've bought it on sale for $7.99, but this was the lowest I've seen it during the past year.

Some persons browse the wine aisle, and their strategy is to try to find the biggest percentage discount off the "list price."  This strategy is flawed IMO for the reasons discussed above.  Again, my advice is that you have to be very careful when purchasing wines at food stores and retail outlets.  Your best strategy is to know what wines you like and their "list prices," so you can tell whether the "sales price" is a good bargain, or not.

Friday, February 19, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 7 - summary of Margaux and the southern Medoc

As mentioned earlier, the Margaux appellation contains some of the best and most expensive wines in Bordeaux.  Typical characteristics of Margaux wines include well-structured, soft, silky, elegant, long-lasting, and exceptional aromas and taste.  Some of the best values come from estates that are just outside the official boundary of the Margaux appellation (see previous discussion of the Biturica Group).  Many of the wines from the petit chateaux retain the characteristics of Margaux wines without the exorbitant price tag.  The following wines have been discussed for this region:

$41 - Chateau du Tertre, Margaux (received 90 points from Robert Parker)
$39 - Chateau Cantemerle (received 90 points from Robert Parker)
$35 - Marquis de Terme, Margaux (received 88 points from Robert Parker)
$34 - Chateay Poujeaux (received 93 points from Robert Parker)
$33 - Chateau Potensac (received 90 points from Robert Parker)
$32 - Chateau Siran, Margaux (received 89 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Chateau Senejac (received 88 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Cambon la Pelouse (received 89 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - Chateau Belle-Vue (received 88 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - Chateau Mille Roses (received 87 points from Robert Parker)
$28 - Chateau Paloumey (received 87 points from Robert Parker)
$24 - Chateau Bolaire (received 88 points from Robert Parker)

From a Robert Parker points perspective, the best values appear to be Chateau Siran (Margaux) for $32 and Chateau Bolaire for $24.  Note that only the last wine, Chateau Bolaire, was under our normal $25 price limit.  However, I have found many of the above wines on sale with good discounts.

For example, I have purchased Mille Roses for $15 from K&L Wines, Belle-Vue for $13 from Bottle Barn, and Cambon la Pelouse for $18 from J.J. Buckley.  I consider all three of these purchases to be very high quality-to-price ratios for excellent wines.

From my own perspective, Margaux-type wines are my personal favorites of all Bordeaux wines.  If you're interested in value-priced wines that will age well, consider Senejac or Belle-Vue -- these wines have fairly high tannin levels and still need a couple years in the cellar (unless you're willing to decant and wait for a few hours before serving).  For wines that you can purchase on sale under $20, my personal favorites are Cambon la Pelouse and Mille Roses -- wonderful taste, aromas, texture, complexity, and silky elegance IMO.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

2005 Chateau Bolaire, Bordeaux Superieur, Medoc, Bordeaux

This small 12 acre vineyard, with its 44 year old vines, is situated near the Margaux appellation, and produces fruit rich in flavor with vibrant aromas of violet, lavender and cedar.  The 2005 vintage is a blend of 34% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 35% Petit Verdot.  It received 88 points from Robert Parker, "A stunning sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 Bolaire possesses an inky/blue/purple color in addition to sweet aromas of blueberries, cherries, and licorice, medium to full-bodied flavors, an excellent texture, and sweet tannin.  It is an intriguing effort that should age nicely for a decade."  The list price is $24.

2005 Potensac, Medoc, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "A superb value for Jean-Hubert Delon, the 2005 Potensac has a deep ruby/purple color, a classic bouquet of sweet red and black fruits, as well as gorgeous texture and purity.  Medium-bodied and concentrated, this wine behaves like a Medoc cru classe.  Moreover, it will age well for 10-15 years.  Very impressive."  The list price is $33.

2005 Poujeaux, Moulis, Bordeaux

Located southwest of Margaux, Chateau Poujeaux is "the star of Moulis, as well as a perennial sleeper and best-buy qualitative pick in the Medoc.  This estate continues to turn out excellent wines," according to Robert Parker who gave the 2005 vintage 93 points.  The list price is $34.

2005 Chateau Paloumey, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Paloumey, located south of Margaux in the southern Medoc, is another member of the Biturica Group that was discussed yesterday.  This well-structured and balanced wine is 41% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 19% Cabernet Franc.  From the Wine Spectator, "Delivers mineral, licorice, and ripe fruit.  Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a medium finish of mineral and spice.  Clean and crisp.  The best ever from this producer."  The list price is $28.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

2005 Belle-Vue, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The 2005 Belle-Vue is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 21% Petit Verdot, and 1% Carmenere, and it received 88 points from Robert Parker, "The deep ruby-purple tinged wine reveals abundant amounts of sweet black cherry fruit intermixed with cedar, spice box, and toasty oak.  Dense and medium-bodied with beautiful elegance, purity and texture, it should drink well for a decade."  The list price is $30.

2005 Senejac, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The 2005 Senejac received 88 points from Robert Parker:  "An attractive, reasonably-priced offering,this wine exhibits subtle aromas of roasted herbs interwoven with scents of cedar, fruitcake, black currants, and cherries.  Medium-bodied and slightly tannic, it will provide savory drinking over the next 10-12 years."  The list price is $31.

2005 Chateau Mille Roses, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Mille Roses is located just down the road from Cambon la Pelouse and close to Giscours and Cantemerle.  This is a well-made wine in the traditional style, not overextracted, ponderous, or overly tannic on the palate.  It has red fruits and toasty oak aromas, with ripe fruit and mocha on the palate, integrated tannins, and the finish is quite smooth.  The 2005 Mille Roses received 87 points from Robert Parker, "Soft, cedar, black cherry and currant fruit intermixed with hints of tobacco leaf and spice emerge from this round, generously endowed, soft Haut-Medoc.  A blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, it can be drunk now or kept for 5-6 years."  The list price is $30.

2005 Cambon La Pelouse, Medoc, Bordeaux

Today, we continue looking at producers around Margaux on the Left Bank.  The winegrowers of the Biturica organization, a group of nine petit chateaux located just to the south and southwest of the Margaux appellation, demonstrate through their wines the enormous potential of the southern Medoc microclimate.  The members of the Biturica group include:  Cambon la Pelouse, Mille Roses, Senejac, Belle-Vue, Gironville, Paloumey, d'Agassac, Clement Pichon, and Clos du Jaugueyron.  Robert Parker calls the Biturica group "a small but very high quality group of passionate young producers.  I doubt anyone can find wines of such elegance, complexity and longevity anywhere else at this price point or quality."

Chateau Cambon la Pelouse is a large estate located in Macau between the famed Giscours estate (in Margaux) and Chateau Cantemerle (discussed yesterday).  Robert Parker calls it "one of the best values in Bordeaux today."  The 2005 vintage received 89 points from Parker, "A big-time sleeper of the vintage, sandwiched between Cantemerle and Giscours, has released a blend of 50% Merlot and the rest primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.  Undoubtedly the finest wine ever made at this estate, it possesses a dark ruby/purple hue as well as an exotic, flamboyant, fruity bouquet of black cherries, wood smoke, tobacco and spice.  Lush, round and opulent, it is ideal for drinking over the next 5-6 years."  The list price is $31.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

2005 Cantemerle, Medoc, Bordeaux

Chateau Cantemerle is located in the town of Macau, just south of the Margaux appellation.  The 2005 vintage received 90 points from Robert Parker:  "Cantemerle's new proprietors believe in producing  delicate, beautifully wrought finesse-styled wines that require some introspection.  The deep ruby-hued 2005 displays aromas of licorice, roasted herbs, sweet cherries, and flowers.  In the mouth, the wine seems almost light in comparison to its peers, but it possess an ethereal seriousness, purity, and overall harmony that are striking for its delicacy and finesse.  A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with a tiny dollop of Cabernet Franc, it should be at its finest between 2012 and 2025+."  The list price is $39.

2005 Chateau du Tertre, Margaux, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Even in the highly acclaimed 2005 vintage, Du Tertre remains under most consumers' radar.  Made by essentially the same winemaking team as Giscours, this cuvee exhibits a dense purple color, followed by earthy, truffle, smoky blackberry, floral and cassis aromas.  It is a beautifully pure, medium to full-bodied wine with abundant but sweet tannin, fine opulence, a multilayered texture, and a long finish.  Cellar it for another 3-4 years, and consume it over the following 20-25."  The list price is $41.

2005 Marquis De Terme, Margaux, Bordeaux

One of the least known of the classified growths in Margaux, the 2005 Marquis De Terme received 88 points from Robert Parker, "Performing better than it did last year, this wine is dark ruby/purple colored, with notes of sweet cherry, cassis, plum, and fig.  With impressive extract, moderately high tannin, and a long finish, this sometimes indifferent estate has acquitted itself well in 2005.  Anticipated maturity 2012-2025."  The list price is $35.

2005 Chateau Siran, Margaux, Bordeaux

Today, we'll discuss some of the more reasonably-priced wines from Margaux (most of the Margaux wines are much higher than our $40 limit).  From Robert Parker, "This property in Labarde in the southern part of the Margaux appellation is making consistently delicious, fragrant, deeply colored wines that are of the highest quality."  The 2005 vintage received 89 points from Robert Parker:  "A structured, muscular Margaux, the 2005 Siran exhibits scents of minerals, earth, black currants, and incense.  Meaty and rich, it is ideal for drinking between 2008 and 2018."  The list price is $32.

Monday, February 15, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 6 - Margaux and the southern Medoc

This week, we'll focus on the southern Medoc area of the Left Bank.  In particular, we'll examine the famed Margaux appellation and the area to the south of Margaux that includes Macau and Ludon-Medoc.  Most wines produced in Margaux and the southern Medoc are blends that contain a healthy portion of Cabernet Sauvignon along with Merlot and more modest portions of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.

From Karen MacNeil's "Wine Bible":  "The southernmost and largest commune of the Medoc, Margaux has more classified estates than St. Estephe, Pauillac or St. Julien.  The aristocratic Chateau Margaux is here, of course, plus twenty other well-known properties.  The soil in Margaux is among the lightest and most gravelly in the Medoc, giving the best wines in the best years a sort of soaring elegance and refinement plus wonderful, generous aromas.  Margaux wines are often described as being like an iron fist in a velvet glove.  It has been this combination of power with delicacy that has given these wines their vaunted reputation."

The wines of Margaux are characterized as being soft and elegant.  They are usually well-structured, with pleasing aromas, silky texture, ripe fruit, and a sense of elegance.  The flagship, Chateau Margaux, produces long-lasting wines of the highest quality.  In addition to the many elite estates within the Margaux appellation, there are also numerous petit chateaux that produce very good to excellent wines.  In a premier vintage like 2005, the wines of the petit chateaux rise to exceptional peaks.  Although the prices of the 2005 vintage are somewhat higher than average (across the board), the outstanding quality of the wines means that, with some work, you can find value-priced gems that represent an extraordinary quality-to-price ratio.

Next week, we'll focus on other areas of the Left Bank such as St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien, and Haut-Medoc.  Most estates on the Left Bank (including Margaux and the others) have gravel soils that are particularly suited to Cabernet Sauvignon which is the major component of most Left Bank wines.  These wines are usually well-structured and have higher tannin levels which promote aging and result in long-lasting wines.  The taste profile for Left Bank wines includes aromas and flavors of cherries, currants, and black fruits, plus notes of spice and cedar.

Friday, February 12, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 5 - summary of the Right Bank

To summarize all of the posts about wines produced on the Right Bank, we'll start with the Cotes de Castillon because that was the appellation for 11 of the wines:

$41 - Clos Les Lunelles (94 points from Robert Parker)
$38 - d'Aiguilhe (92 points from Robert Parker)
$38 - Clos l'Eglise (89-90 points from Robert Parker)
$35 - Domaine de l'A (91 points from Robert Parker)
$32 - Clos Puy Arnaud (88 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - Joanin Becot (90 points from Robert Parker)
$23 - d'Aiguilhe Querre (91 points from Robert Parker)
$22 - Puy Arnaud Maureze
$21 - Ampelia (88 points from Robert Parker)
$20 - Brisson (87-89 points from Robert Parker)
$13 - Sainte Colombe (88 points from Robert Parker)

Of these 11 wines, Sainte Colombe is obviously the best value by far from a "Robert Parker" perspective.

Here is a summary of the wines for the other appellations on the Right Bank:

$39 - Grand Pontet, St. Emilion (93 points from Robert Parker)
$38 - La Vieille Cure, Fronsac (93 points from Robert Parker)
$38 - Chateau de Sales, Pomerol
$37 - Chateau Pipeau, St. Emilion (90 points from Robert Parker)
$37 - La Fleur de Bouard, Lalande-de-Pomerol, (89 points from Robert Parker)
$31 - Epicurea de Chateau Martinat (90 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - La Dauphine, Fronsac (90 points from Robert Parker)
$28 - Puygueraud, Cotes de Francs (89 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Benjamin de Sansonnet (second wine of Sansonnet)
$23 - Les Trois Croix, Fronsac (87 points from Robert Parker)
$20 - Gigault "Cuvee Viva"

Remember that the QPR value of a wine depends on both the overall quality of the wine and the price you can purchase it.  Although sales are not frequent, I've purchased the Clos l'Eglise (Cotes de Castillon) for $19.99 on an inventory clearance sale at K&L Wines (list price $38), and the Puy Arnaud Maureze on sale at Bottle Barn for $9.99 (list price $22).

However, probably the best overall QPR value among Right Bank wines is the 2005 Sainte Colombe for $12.99 with a Parker rating of 88 points.  It's a good, solid Merlot-based wine.  Again, everything depends on your own taste and your own evaluation of a particular wine.

It should also be noted that there are hundreds of petit chateaux on the Right Bank that produced very good wines in the 2005 vintage.  Only 22 Right Bank wines were discussed above in an attempt to provide a representative sample of wines with a list price under $40.

2005 Puy Arnaud Maureze, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

This wine is from a small five hectares estate in Cotes de Castillon where the vines have an average age of 25 years.  The 2005 Puy Arnaud Maureze is almost all Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Franc.  Bright, ripe aromatic nose of dark cherries and red berries.  This wine offers a long finish with rounded tannins, chocolate and cedar notes.  The list price is $22.

2005 d'Aiguilhe Querre, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

This wine received 91 points from Robert Parker;  "A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this wine exhibits a dark ruby/purple hue along with notes of Blueberries, black raspberries, pain grille, and white chocolate.  Full-bodied with superb richness, a layered texture, a multidimensional mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts nearly 40 seconds, it can easily compete with some of the vintage's top crus."  The list price is $23.

2005 Ampelia, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

This wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "This is another sleeper of th vintage offering a dense purple color as well as notes of Creme de cassis, licorice, incense, and crushed rocks.  The 2005 Ampelia also displays terrific fruit, medium body, and excellent acidity, precision, purity and length.  It will be even better after 1-2 years of cellaring, and drink well over the following decade."  The list price is $21.

2005 Clos l'Eglise, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

One of the Castillon stars and an incredible value in 2005, this wine received 89-90 points from Robert Parker, "One of the least expensive wines produced by Gerard Perse, the 2005 Clos l'Eglise (70% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) exhibits notes of sweet cranberries, jammy black cherries and strawberries, crushed rocks, and flowers.  With a dense purple color, medium body, loads of fruit, and a soft, round mouthfeel and finish, it can be enjoyed over the next 5-6 years."  The list price is $38.

2005 Clos Puy Arnaud, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

From Robert Parker, "Clos Puy Arnaud is a seriously-run property that consistently produces one of the top two or three wines from Cotes de Castillon.  It has been very strong in recent vintages.  The 2005 vintage of this wine received 88 points from Robert Parker, "Although the 2005 Clos Puy Arnaud may not be as brilliant as the 2001, it is still a terrific wine.  Revealing plenty of crushed rock/mineral characteristics along with hints of black cherries, intense fruit, and a beautiful mouthfeel, this dense ruby/purple-tinged effort should drink well for 7-8 years."  The list price is $32.

2005 Clos Les Lunelles, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

Although the list price of $41 is slightly outside our range, I've included it because discounts are sometimes possible.  Also, Robert Parker gives this wine 94 points:  "The Cotes de Castillon offering from perfectionists Chantal and Gerard Perse, the 2005 Clos Les Lunelles, fashioned from yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, is a candidate for the reference point wine of the appellation.  Inky/blue/purple-colored with stunning aromas of spring flowers, sweet cherries, black currants, crushed rocks and new oak, it possesses fabulous fruit, remarkable intensity and texture, full body, and a huge, moderately tannic finish.  The natural alcohol came in at 14.3%.  Anticipated maturity 2010-2020+."  The list price is $41.

2005 Joanin Becot, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "Joanin Becot's amazing 2005, a sleeper of the vintage, should be priced realistically.  This stunning blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc (from 32 year old vines) achieved 14.5% natural alcohol.  A saturated purple color offers up scents of graphite, blueberries, blackberries, smoke and charcoal.  Dense, opulent and full-bodied, with stunning concentration, sweet but noticeable tannin, and terrific purity as well as nuances, this is unquestionably one of the finest wines I have ever tasted from the Cotes de Castillon.  Drink it over the next 10-15 years."  The list price is $30.

2005 Sainte Colombe, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

This bargain-priced wine received 88 points from Robert Parker:  "One of the least expensive wines from Gerard Perse's three Cotes de Castillon estates, the 2005 Ste-Colombe is unquestionably the softest and most immediately accessible.  Its dark ruby color is followed by a concoction of ripe, sweet black currant and cherry fruit, incense, spring flowers, and spice.  Drink this richly fruited 2005 over the next 4-5 years."  The list price is $13.

2005 Domaine de l'A, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

The 2005 Domaine de l'A received 91 points from Robert Parker:  "The best wine yet produced from this 15 acre parcel owned by renowned winemaking guru, Stephane Derenoncourt.  Domaine de l'A's 2005 achieved 14% natural alcohol.  A blend of 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses an inky/ruby/purple color in addition to gorgeous aromas of smoke, sweet, jammy strawberries, black currants and raspberries, and hints of mochas as well as new oak.  Tremendous purity (a hallmark of this vintage), full body, moderate tannin, and superb freshness and precision are found in this stunning Cotes de Castillon."  The list price is $35.

2005 d'Aiguilhe, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

Even though the list price is $38, this producer is consistently outstanding and always a serious value.  This is a superb full-bodied and layered wine, with a silky blend of mostly Merlot and a little Cabernet Franc.  It received 92 points from Robert Parker, "This huge, historic property, owned by Stephan von Neipperg, appears to have produced their finest wine to date.  The dense, purple-tinged 2005 offers up notes of creme de cassis, charcoal, camphor, and espresso roast.  A sleeper of the vintage, it is a full-bodied, layered, super-concentrated, smooth as silk blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.  Enjoy this superb bargain-priced claret over the next 8-10 years."

2005 Chateau Brisson, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

Today's topic is the Cotes de Castillon appellation on the Right Bank.  We'll focus on this area and describe about 10 wines because Cotes de Castillon is one of the most promising up-and-coming areas for petit chateaux and value-priced Bordeaux wine.  The 2005 Chateau Brisson received 87-89 points from Robert Parker, "A sleeper of the vintage, this sweet, plump Cotes de Castillon possesses abundant quantities of black cherries and currant fruit along with licorice, herb and spice box characteristics.  Enjoy it over the next 7-8 years."  The list price is $20.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

2005 Chateau Les Trois Croix, Fronsac, Bordeaux

Chateau Les Trois Croix is one of the oldest wine properties in the Fronsac region of the Right Bank.  The vines have average age of 45 years, and the wine is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.  It received 87 points from Robert Parker, and 90 points from Wine Spectator, "This wine has a pretty nose, with blackberry, flowers, and licorice-tainted mineral.  Full-bodied, with dense fruit, fine tannins, and a long finish."  The list price is $23.

2005 Epicurea de Chateau Martinat, Cotes de Bourg, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "An outstanding effort from the Cotes de Bourg, this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Malbec reveals an inky/ruby/purple color in addition to a big, smoky nose of charcoal, black cherries, cassis and spice.  This lush, opulent, hedonistic 2005 should be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years."  The list price is $31.

2005 Benjamin de Sansonnet, St. Emilion, Bordeaux

The 2005 Benjamin de Sansonnet is the second wine of Chateau Sansonnet in the elite St. Emilion appellation.  Mostly Merlot, this wine has layers of black fruits and dark chocolate, with tremendous concentration and depth, plus firm structure and a long finish.  The list price is $27.

2005 La Dauphine, Fronsac, Bordeaux

This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker, "It's amazing how good this wine has become since the property was sold to Jean Halley.  The outstanding, sexy, full-bodied 2005 is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.  With beautiful purity, symmetry, and power as well as elegance, it is a fresh, full, soft Fronsac with sensational concentration and depth.  It can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years."  The list price is $30.

2005 Gigault "Cuvee Viva," Cotes de Blaye, Bordeaux

From Robert Parker, "One of my favorite inexpensive offerings from the Blaye region, this deep ruby/purple-colored 2005 reveals relatively big tannin for its style, along with plenty of blackberry fruit, impressive body, density, glycerin and alcohol.  It should age easily for 4-6 years.  A blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc."  The list price is $20.

2005 Chateau Arnauton, Fronsac, Bordeaux

Today, more wines from the Right Bank.  The vineyards of Chateau Arnauton (in Fronsac) are at the highest elevation in the Right Bank region.  The vines average 30 years of age.  A blend of 88% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec, this wine has deep ruby color with ripe black fruit, hints of coffee, and a touch of wood.  Rich, round, sweet, great texture, with plenty of body on the palate.  The list price is $17.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

2005 Soleil, Puisseguin St. Emilion, Bordeaux

This wine is from the Puisseguin St. Emilion appellation just outside of the famed St. Emilion appellation.  It received 89 points from Robert Parker, "Soleil's 2005 displays a gaudy bouquet of black currant fruit and roasted Provencal herbs, a fat, fleshy texture, decent acidity, and sweet tannin."  From Wine Spectator, "Offers gorgeous plum and blackberry character, with hints of flowers.  Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, caressing finish."  The list price is $34.

2005 Pipeau, St. Emilion, Bordeaux

This wine was #43 in Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2008 and was awarded 92 points:  "Beautiful blackberry, cherry and light vanilla aromas follow through to a full body, with coffee, smoke and berry character.  Long and stylish.  Velvety and balanced.  Best after 2013."  From Robert Parker, "One of my favorite St. Emilions because of its sexy, exuberant, hedonistic style, Pipeau is the type of wine I would love to find frequently at restaurants.  Pipeau is one of the best values to emerge from St. Emilion in many years."  The list price is $37.

2005 La Fleur de Bouard, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux

This wine received 89 points from Robert Parker, "The 2005 La Fleur de Bouard (85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc)  exhinits a dense ruby/purple hue, relatively high tannins, medium to full body, and beautiful richness as well as density.  The ultimate reference point for what can be achieved in Lalande-de-Pomerol, this property continues to turn out fabulous wines."  The list price is $37.

2005 Puygueraud, Cotes de Francs, Bordeaux

This wine was #32 in Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2008 and was awarded 92 points:  "Shows lovely black currant, floral and black licorice notes.  Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a tight bead of fruit and mineral throughout.  Long finish."  This wine received 89 points from Robert Parker, "The bouquet offers up aromas of tobacco leaf, black currants, cherries, charcoal, and a hint of background wood.  It is a beautifully textured, dense purple-colored effort."  The list price is $28.

2005 La Vieille Cure, Fronsac, Bordeaux

From Robert Parker, "This estate has been doing spectacular work over the last half dozen or so vintages.  La Vieille Cure has become one of the leading estates of Fronsac.  Its style is one of opulence, complexity, and sexy, up-front fruit, but with enough tannin and structure to age for a decade."  Parker gave the 2005 vintage 93 points:  "La Vieille Cure's amazing 2005 is even better than their terrific 2003 and 2000 vintages.  The 2005 boasts an inky/ruby color asa well as a gorgeously sweet perfume of charcoal, black cherries, black currants, and spring flowers as well as an underlying mineral component.  Superb concentration, full-bodied power, wonderful symmetry, purity and texture, and a multidimensional mouthfeel are all found in this fabulous sleeper of the vintage."  The list price is $38.

2005 Grand Pontet, St. Emilion, Bordeaux

Today, we'll describe several wines from St. Emilion and surrounding appellations.  From the famed St. Emilion appellation, this wine received 93 points from Robert Parker:  "From this 35 acre vineyard, Sophie Porquet has fashioned a sensational blend of 70% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Her finest effort since taking over this property in 1999, the 2005 boasts a saturated purple color followed by notes of ripe blackberries, black currants, licorice, incense, chocolate and espresso.  Thick, highly-extracted flavors nearly obscure the elevated tannins.  This big, serious, rich claret is meant to last for three decades or more.  A great wine for the vintage, it is also a sleeper of the vintage."  The list price is $39.

Monday, February 8, 2010

2005 Chateau de Sales, Pomerol, Bordeaux

Most Pomerol wines cost more than $40, and thus are excluded from this blog.  However, the 2005 Chateau de Sales is one of the more moderately-priced wines from the Pomerol appellation.  It is composed of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Cabernet Franc.  From the Wine Spectator, "A medium-bodied red, with chocolate, coffee and berry character on the nose and palate.  Fruity, supple and round with good structure.  Medium and pretty wine."  A classic Pomerol at a realistic list price of $38.

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 4 - the Right Bank

On the Right Bank of the Gironde River, Pomerol and St. Emilion are the most elite appellations by far.  And the most expensive Right Bank wines are produced there.  The original list price for the famed 2005 Chateau Petrus (in Pomerol) was $2,600.  Along with virtually all of the most elite Bordeaux wines from the 2005 vintage, this wine has appreciated since it was first released, and it now costs over $3,000 a bottle.  Similarly, a bottle of 2005 Chateau Cheval Blanc (rouge) from St. Emilion costs over $1,000 (the original list price was $800).

However, Pomerol and St. Emilion are very small areas, and there are numerous wine-producing regions throughout the Right Bank.  Among the appellations that produce very good (and much less expensive) wines are the following:

1.  Cotes de Castillon - located inland at the eastern edge of the Right Bank, about 10 miles east of St. Emilion.  Wines include:  St. Colombe, Domaine de l'A, d'Aiguilhe, d'Aiguilhe Querre, Brisson, Joanin Becot, Clos Les Lunelles, Clos Puy Arnaud, Puy Arnaud Maureze, Laussac, Clos l'Eglise, Ampelia, Cap de Faugeres, and l'Estang.

2.  Lalande de Pomerol - located slightly north of Pomerol.  Producers include:  La Fleur de Bouard, Grand Ormeau, La Graviere, Jaugue Blanc, Perron La Fleur, Sargant, De Viaud, and Bertineau St. Vincent.

3.  Premieres Cotes de Blaye - located on the east bank of the Gironde River on the northern edge of the Right Bank.  Wines include:  Confiance de Gerard Depardieu, La Croix de Perenne, Les Grands-Marechaux, St. Genes, Bel-Air La Royere, and Gigault Cuvee Viva.

4.  Cotes de Francs - located inland just to the south of Pomerol and St. Emilion.  Wines include:  Puygueraud, Marsau, Pelan, and La Prade.

5.  Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux - located on the east bank of the Gironde River across from Margaux.  Producers include:  Clos Chaumont, La Doyenne, Grand Moueys, and Plaisance Alix.

6.  Cotes de Bourg - located in the southern part of the Right Bank across from Graves.  Wines include:  Guerry, Guionne, Fougas Maldorer, and Martinot-Epicurea.

7.  Fronsac - located not too far inland northwest of Pomerol.  Producers include:  La Vieille Cure, Les Trois Croix, La Dauphine, Fontenil, Richelieu, Villars, Dalem, Haut-Carles, Haut-Mazeris, and Moulin Haut-Laroque.

Merlot is the predominant grape on the Right Bank.  Many wines are close to 100% Merlot.  Other wines are blends -- usually with more than 50% Merlot and a combination of one or more of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, or Malbec.  Due to the Merlot influence, many wines are approachable early and their prime drinking periods end earlier than Left Bank wines that are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon.  However, most Right Bank wines are cellar-worthy, and some Right Bank wines age very well and may last 30 or more years (especially the most expensive wines).

Most estates have predominantly clay-based soils that are especially good for Merlot.  The Right Bank wines have softer tannins, mature earlier, have supple texture, and have taste profiles that emphasize plum and berry fruit flavors.

For the rest of this week, we'll discuss a variety of individual wines from the Right Bank.  Once again, we'll use $40 as the upper limit for the list price, with the idea that sales and discounts occur from time to time, and it is sometimes possible to purchase high-QPR wines on sale under $25 -- wines that normally cost $30-40.

The focus will be on (1) the superb 2005 vintage, and (2) the petit chateaux that produce excellent wines at reasonable prices.  The goal of our search is to identify the "sleepers of the vintage" -- those wines that are under-the-radar and represent excellent value.  In 2005, hundreds of these wines were produced in Bordeaux, and only a small sample is discussed in this blog.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 3 - summary of Graves and Pessac-Leognan

The following wines from the Graves and Pessac-Leognan appellations have been described in previous posts (listed from most expensive to least expensive):

$39 - Chateau Haut-Bergey (92 points from Robert Parker)
$39 - Chateau Carbonnieux (91 points from Robert Parker)
$36 - Mejean Rouge (91 points from Robert Parker)
$35 - Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion (90 points from Robert Parker)
$30 - Chateau de Fieuzal (90 points from Robert Parker)
$29 - Cantelys Rouge
$28 - Chateau Luchey-Halde (92 points from Robert Parker)
$27 - Clos Marsalette (91 points from Robert Parker)
$25 - Chateau Rouillac (89 points from Robert Parker)
$22 - Chateau des Fougeres "La Folie" (90 points from Robert Parker)
$20 - Clos Floridene Rouge
$20 - Chateau Leonie
$20 - Chateau de Chantegrieve
$19 - Chateau Haut Vigneau
$19 - Chateau Bois Martin
$18 - Chateau de Rochemorin (89 points from Robert Parker)
$18 - l'Avocat Rouge

I think all of these wines provide good quality-to-price ratios.  From a Robert Parker perspective, the best values appear to be the Chateau de Rochemorin and Chateau Des Fougeres "La Folie" for under $25 -- and the Chateau Luchey-Halde, and the Clos Marsalette for over $25.  But be on the lookout for sales and discounts.  I found the Chateau Bois Martin on sale for $15 and have been enjoying it for the past year or so.

2005 Chateau de Rouillac, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The fourth wine is the 2005 Rouillac which received 89 points from Robert Parker:  "Readers looking for high-quality Pessac-Leognan at a bargain price should check out Rouillac, a chateau on the rise.  Smoky, cedary, charcoal notes intermixed with copious black cherry and currant fruit jump from the glass of this stylish, complex, medium-bodied wine, which has terrific fruit intensity, superb purity, and a long, lush, silky finish."  The list price is $25.

2005 Chateau Luchey-Halde, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The third wine, the 2005 Luchey-Halde, received 92 points from Robert Parker:  "One of the few remaining vineyards within the city limits of Merignac, this high-class blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot (and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) exhibits juicy, sweet, smoky notes of berries, cranberries, herbs and minerals.  Richly fruity with sweet tannin as well as a round, gentle finish, it should be drunk during its first 5-7 years of life."  The list price is $28.

2005 Mejean Rouge, Graves, Bordeaux

The second wine received 91 points from Robert Parker, "The 2005 Mejean, a sensational sleeper of the vintage, is the finest wine I have ever tasted from this Graves estate.  A blend of primarily Merlot with only a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers an explosive nose of sweet black cherry fruit interwoven with charcoal, spice box, fruit cake, and a hint of cigar tobacco.  Creamy-textured, with real opulence, this gorgeous wine can be drunk now or cellared for 7-10 years."  The list price is $36.

2005 Chateau des Fougeres "La Folie," Graves, Bordeaux

Today, we'll describe the last four wines from the Graves and Pessac-Leognan appellations.  The 2005 Chateau des Fougeres "La Folie" received 90 points from Robert Parker, "This beautiful Pessac-Leognan exhibits notes of charcoal, scorched earth, and sweet black currant and cherry fruit.  With soft tannins, a lush mouthfeel, and a pure finish, it will drink well for 5-6 years."  The list price is $22.

Friday, February 5, 2010

2005 Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The 2005 Haut-Bergey received 92 points from Robert Parker:  "One of the finest under-the-radar estates in Pessac-Leognan, Haut-Bergey's 2005 (a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot) offers up aromas of scorched earth, wet stones, burning embers, charcoal, and copious black currant and cherry fruit.  The sumptuous bouquet is accompanied by a full-bodied wine displaying dazzling purity, sweet tannin, and a long, opulent finish.  This beauty will be drinakable at a relatively early age, and the anticipated maturity is 2010-2025."  The list price is $39.

2005 Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The 2005 Larrivet-Haut-Brion received 90 points from Robert Parker:  "The deep, dark plum/ruby-tinged 2005 exhibits a bouquet of smoke, graphite, black currants, cherries, and roasted herbs.  With supple tannins, a round, generous, broad palate impression, good sweetness and purity, decent acidity, and ripe tannins, it is an approachable Graves wine that should drink beautifully for 15 or more years."  The list price is $35.

2005 Chateau Bois Martin, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

Chateau Bois Martin is located between two great growths (Chateau Fieuzal and Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere) just outside the village of Leognan.  This estate is owned by the esteemed Perrin family of Carbonnieux fame.  70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.  This vintage of Bois Martin is typical of many other wines from this vintage.  The wine shows excellent structure with good acidity and tannins balanced with ripe fruit.  Black cherries and dark berries are the predominant flavors and there is also a touch of spice.  Compared to Haut Vigneau (another Perrin property), I like Bois Martin slightly better because it has somewhat better structure and fruit.  The list price is $19 (about half the price of Carbonnieux).

2005 Haut Vigneau, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

A superb wine and great value from the 2005 vintage.  Soft and fruity on the palate with some underlying mineral notes.  70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.  The property is owned by Eric Perrin (son of Anthony Perrin who owns Chateau Carbonnieux).  The winemaking crew at Carbonnieux helps with the vinification at Haut Vigneau, which explains the similarities in the two wines.  Haut Vigneau has a little less structure and body than Carbonnieux, but it is an excellent wine IMO.  The list price is $19 (about half the price of Carbonnieux).

2005 Chateau Carbonnieux, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

Chateau Carbonnieux is one of the best white wine producers in Pessac-Leognan, and their red wines are excellent as well.  The 2005 vintage received 91 points from Robert Parker, "The finest Carbonnieux I have ever tasted, the deep, ruby/purple-tinged 2005 offers gorgeously sweet aromas of black cherries, cassis, spice box, smoke and new oak.  Medium-bodied, beautifully rich, savory and spicy, with moderate tannins, it will be drinkable between 2009 and 2025.  It reminds me of a synthesis in style between a grand cru Burgundy and a classic Graves wine.  It is a brilliant wine."  The list price is $39.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

2005 Chateau de Fieuzal, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The fifth wine from Pessac-Leognan received 92 points from Robert Parker, "The finest Fieuzal in many years, the deep ruby/purple-hued 2005 offers up scents of plums, cassis, figs, damp earth, blue fruits, tobacco leaf, smoke, and hints of truffles.  Medium-to-full-bodied, rich and deep with good underlying acidity and ripe tannin, this beauty will be at its peak between 2010-2025."  It also received 92 points from Wine Enthusiast:  "Lovely, delicious sweet fruit leads to a ripe and generous wine, showing deliciously black fruit flavors."  The list price is $33.

2005 Chateau Olivier, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The fourth wine is the 2005 Chateau Olivier which received 90 points from Wine Spectator:  "Interesting ripe fruit and tobacco character with a hint of earth.  Medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish."  From Robert Parker, "A solidly made, very competent effort, Oilivier's spicy, medium-bodied, dark ruby/purple colored 2005 reveals black cherry, cassis and spice characteristics.  It should drink well for 10-15 years."  The list price is $30.

2005 Cantelys Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The third wine from Pessac-Leognan, the 2005 Cantelys Rouge, is from an estate owned by the Cathiard family of Smith-Haut-Lafitte fame.  The vineyeards are located next to Smith-Haut-Lafitte and Rochemorin, and the wines are made by the same winemaking team as Smith-Haut-Lafitte.  The wine is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.  Toasty oak, cassis and red berry fruit on the nose.  Ripe and soft on the palate entry but firm at back with integrated tannins.  Very ripe and forward fruit with fine structure and acidity.  The list price is $29.

2005 Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

The second wine is the 2005 Clos Marsalette which received 91 points from Robert Parker, "A small, Pessac-Leognan estate owned by Stephan von Neipperg, who has accomplished brilliant things at his St. Emilion and Cotes de Castillon properties.  This is the finest wine Clos Marsalette has yet produced.  A provocative, fragrant blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, it offers a dense ruby/purple color, a smoky, earthy, black cherry and currant-scented bouquet, a lovely texture, sweet tannin, fine freshness, and admirable definition, size and balance.  It should drink well for a decade or more."  The list price is $27.

2005 Chateau de Rochemorin, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux

Today, I'll review five wines produced in the Pessac-Leognan appellation (from least expensive to most expensive).  The first wine, Chateau de Rochemorin, received 89 points from Wine Spectator:  "Aromas of blackberry, tobacco and coffee follow through to a full body, with soft, round tannins and a chocolate, berry and smoke aftertaste."  The list price is $18.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

2005 Clos Floridene Rouge, Graves, Bordeaux

The 2005 Clos Floridene Rouge, also from Graves, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  According to Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, "Medium ruby-red.  Cassis, blueberry, violet and menthol on the nose.  Supple black fruit and menthol flavors offer moderate ripeness but good life.  Finishes with dusty, reasonably ripe tannins and some menthol and herbal notes."  The list price is $20.

2005 l'Avocat Rouge, Graves, Bordeaux

The third wine is from the commune of Cerons, which is located just north of Barsac and Sauternes in the southern Graves appellation.  The 2005 l'Avocat Rouge is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc.  This wine has good fruit, is medium-bodied, and has the textbook minerality.  The list price is $18.

2005 Chateau Leonie, Graves, Bordeaux

The second wine is from the tiny village of Leogeats, just south of Sauternes in the Graves region.  From the Wine Spectator, "A fruity red, with tobacco, cedar and light blackberry character.  Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a medium finish."  This wine is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The list price is $20.

2005 Chateau de Chantegrieve, Graves, Bourdeaux

Today, I'll discuss four wines from the Graves region.  All of the wines have a list price around $20.  The first wine is the 2005 Chateau de Chantegrieve.  Jancis Robinson, the noted English wine critic, gives it 17 points (out of 20 total points):  "The wine has a blackish crimson color.  Very sweet, ripe black fruit with some warm-brick (Haut-Brion-like) overlay.  Lots of minerals and interest with intense ripeness yet freshness, too.  A very, very amiable wine.  Lovely balance with neat, sandy tannins on the finish."  The list price is $20.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 2 - Pessac-Leognan and Graves

The Graves region is on the Left Bank south of the city of Bordeaux.  A small portion of the total Graves region, the part closest to the city of Bordeaux along the river, was designated as an elite appellation called "Pessac-Leognan."  The soil in the Graves region is characterized by small stones and gravelly soil.  The wines produced in Pessac-Leognan and Graves evoke the subtle aroma and flavor of the gravel and stones from which they come.

Only one chateau in Pessac-Leognan, Chateau Haut-Brion, was included in the famous 1855 Classification which designated the most elite chateaux in Bordeaux.  The wine produced by Chateau Haut-Brion is still considered stunning for its flavor, complexity and character.

The Graves appellation holds the distinction of being the only part of Bordeaux where most chateaux make both red and white wines.  Although many wine drinkers think of dry white wines when they think of Graves, white wine is slightly outproduced by red wine.  For red wines, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape, but many wines include generous amounts of Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc.

Besides Haut-Brion, famous producers in Pessac-Leognan include Chateau La Mission-Haut Brion, Chateau Pape-Clement, and Chateau Haut-Bailly.  Other elite producers of red wines are Chateau La Louviere, Domaine de Chevalier, Chateau Bouscaut, and Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte.

In Graves, white wines are made from blends of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  Semillon adds richness, body, depth, and the ability to age gracefully.  Sauvignon Blanc adds acidity and freshness of flavor.  The white wines from a noted producer, Chateau Carbonnieux, have a bright, minerally vibrancy and a satiny mouthfilling texture when young, and it develops a rich, honeyed character after several years of aging.  Other top white wine producers include:  Chateau Couhins-Lurton, Chateau Pape-Clement, Chateau La Louviere, and Chateau de Fieuzal.

Unfortunately, the prices of the wines produced by the top chateaux exceed our $25 per bottle limit by a substantial amount.  Therefore, we'll concentrate our search on identifying the best of the "petit chateaux" in Pessac-Leognan and Graves.  Although not as esteemed as the top chateaux, it is possible to find many very good to excellent wines among the petit chateaux.

I'll raise our limit to a "list price" under $40 because it is possible to find some $30-40 wines on sale and discounted below $25 a bottle.  The sales are not frequent but they do occur occasionally.  In fact, when these wines do go on sale, it provides one of the best opportunities for building up a collection of excellent wines.

I'll identify and describe potential candidate wines from Pessac-Leognan and Graves over the next few days.  Then I'll move on to the Right Bank.  It's not possible for me to describe the characteristics of individual wines for all recent vintages.  Therefore, I've decided to focus on the 2005 vintage which was the most recent "great vintage" and for which detailed evaluations are available.  In addition, all of these wines are still widely available for purchase.

There is a French saying, "Grands millesimes, petits vins -- petit millesimes, grands vins."  Basically, it means that, in great vintages, the petit chateaux often provide some of the best wine drinking (for the dollar), whereas in less successful vintages, the prices of wines of great terroirs soften considerably and become more affordable, and you can grab a taste of wines that are unaffordable in the better years.

Monday, February 1, 2010

How to understand Bordeaux wines - part 1

Today is the first day of "Bordeaux Month."  Often referred to as the "King of Wines," Bordeaux is the highest-producing wine region in the world, and it has been for hundreds of years.  Encompassing about 4,000 square miles, Bordeaux runs about 80 miles north to south and 50 miles east to west.  It is bisected by the Gironde River that flows from south to north and empties into the Atlantic Ocean.

The town of Bordeaux, a city with over 100,000 residents, sits in the center of the region on the west side of the Gironde River and just south of the confluence of the Garonne and Dordogne  Rivers that flow into the Gironde.  The area on the west side of the Gironde River is called the Left Bank.  To the southwest of the city of Bordeaux is the Pessac-Leognan appellation which is the elite part of the larger Graves appellation that extends further to the south and southwest.

To the immediate northwest of the city of Bordeaux is a large area called the southern Medoc.  Further north on the Left Bank is the famous appellation of Margaux.  About 20 miles further north along the river are the three elite appellations of St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estephe furthest north.  A large region called the Haut-Medoc surrounds Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estephe.  The Haut-Medoc contains a huge number of "petit chateau" wineries and regions such as Listrac and Moulis.

On the Right Bank (east side of the Gironde River), the two major appellations are Pomerol and St. Emilion which are surrounded by several designated wine areas:  Cotes de Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, Cotes de Franc, Premieres Cotes de Bayes, etc.  Merlot is the grape variety that rules on the Right Bank.  Most wines use Merlot as the dominant varietal grape, with smaller percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec added for taste and structure.  The advantage of these Merlot-based wines is that they are approachable and drinkable soon after bottling, rather than requiring extensive aging (except for the most expensive wines).

On the Left Bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape, but it usually constitutes only around 50% (more or less) of the wine with the rest comprised mainly of Merlot (but Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec are also used in varying proportions).  Of course, each Left Bank wine is unique, and the Cabernet Sauvignon percentage usually varies from 25% to 75% (although some wines may not have any Cabernet Sauvignon).  The Cabernet Sauvignon grape provides the tannic structure for aging so Left Bank wines typically will last longer than Right Bank wines.

You can find everything in Bordeaux -- from inexpensive bulk wines to the most expensive wines in the world -- from subtle and elegant wines to over-extracted, high-alcohol, over-ripe, heavy-handed wines.  In addition to their "grand wines," most of the famous chateaux also produce second wines that cost a fraction of the grand wines but are usually very good.

The best of the second wines include:  Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux (second wine of Chateau Margaux), Reserve de la Comtesse (from Chateau Pichon-Lalande), Les Forts de Latour (from Chateau Latour), Clos du Marquis (from Chateau Leoville-Las Cases), Les Pensees de Lafleur (from Chateau Lafleur), Haut-Bages Averous (from Chateau Lynch-Bages),  Carruades de Lafite (from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild), Alter Ego de Palmer (from Chateau Palmer), Marquis de Segur (from Chateau Calon-Segur), Le Petit Mouton (from Chateau Mouton-Rothschild), La Dame de Montrose (from Chateau Montrose), and Le Petit Cheval (from Chateau Cheval Blanc).

The big-name Bordeaux wines may last for 30-40 years or more.  However, with extremely high tannin levels, these wines usually need at least 7-8 years of aging before they are mature enough to enjoy.  In the best vintages like 2000 or 2005, ten or more years of aging may be required before the best wines are drinkable.

In between the famous chateaux and the bulk producers are the "petit chateaux," a term that is used to describe the huge category of individual wineries that produce wines in the $10-75 price range.  The top-50 chateaux, that produce the most expensive and sought-after wine, usually produce about 100,000 bottles of wine each year.  Overall, the Bordeaux region has 10,000 producers who turn out over 700 million bottles of wine per year.

Even with the petit chateaux, some wines may be very powerful and long-lasting.  Other wines, however, may be more understated and stress finesse and elegance rather than power.  To find Bordeaux wines that are very good to excellent and cost under $25, we will confine our search to the wines of the numerous petit chateaux.

As with all wines, to evaluate the quality-to-price ratio (QPR) represented by a wine, we will need to distinguish between the characteristics of different types of Bordeaux wines.  In addition to differences by geography or terroir, some wines will be lighter and medium-bodied vs. heavier and full-bodied.  Some wines will show smoothness and elegance, where others will show some rough edges and signs of rusticity.  We'll try to distinguish between big, bold, powerful wines and more subtle wines with finesse and silky elegance.  For example, a light, refined claret vs. a fruit-forward, heavily-tannic blockbuster wine.  Or a rather simple, one-dimensional wine vs. a wine with great complexity and character.

In our search for high-QPR wines, we'll explore the Bordeaux wines according to the four major regions:

1.  Pessac-Leognan and Graves
2.  The Right Bank (Pomerol, St. Emilion, Cotes de Castillon, etc.)
3.  The southern Medoc on the Left Bank (Margaux, Macau, etc.)
4.  The northern section of the Left Bank (St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and Haut-Medoc)

I'll start with Pessac-Leognan and the Graves region tomorrow.  All of the descriptions of individual wines will refer to the 2005 vintage which was the most recent "great vintage" and for which detailed evaluations are available.  Three other reasons for focusing on the 2005 vintage:  (1) for most wines, the 2005 vintage was significantly better than the 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006 or 2007 vintages, (2) the 2005 wines generally have riper fruit, more freshness, and significantly more character than the wines of other recent vintages, and (3) although 2005 prices were higher than other recent vintages, the 2005 wines were of higher quality and their prime drinking periods will be substantially longer than the other vintages.  In other words, $25 spent for a bottle of 2005 Bordeaux is generally a much better investment than $25 spent on a bottle of any other recent vintage (excluding 2000).

It should be noted that there are hundreds of petit chateaux in Bordeaux that make good, very good, or excellent wines.  The posts that are made during the remaining of February will try to identify a representative sample of producers from each region that can be used as a starting point to find high-QPR wines according to your own tastes and budget.

The selected wines have been readily available in the San Francisco Bay area, but they may not be available in your area (on-line purchasing options like K&L Wines, J.J. Buckley, etc. can also be checked).  Although the 2005 Bordeaux are disappearing from shelves in many cases, I've recently seen significant discounts when a retailer gets access to a large batch of wine from an importer.  So be on the lookout for good sales.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Wine Quotes

Here is a collection of wine quotations:

If food is the body of good living, wine is its soul.  Clifton Fadiman

Wine is bottled poetry.  Robert Louis Stevenson

Good wine is a necessity of life for me.  Thomas Jefferson

I made a mental note to watch which bottle became empty soonest, sometimes a more telling evaluation system than any other.  Gerald Asher

Making good wine is a skill;  making fine wine is an art.  Robert Mondavi

Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized.  Andre Simon

Life is too short to drink bad wine.  Anonymous

Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life's most civilized pleasures.  Michael Broadbent

Though I'm no doctor, just the idea of drinking wine over a leisurely meal has a positive effect (on health) by virtue of the fact that it is elegant, relaxing and fun.  Robert Parker

"De gustibus non est disputandum."  There is no disputing matters of taste.

There are no standards of taste in wine, cigars, poetry, prose, etc.  Each man's own taste is the standard, and a majority vote cannot decide for him or in any slightest degree affect the supremacy of his own standard.  Mark Twain

Never buy the cheapest wine in any category, as its taste may discourage you from going on.  Cheap wine will always be too expensive.  Alex Bespaloff

I know never to take a wine for granted.  Drawing a cork is like attendance at a concert or at a play one knows well, when there is all the uncertainty of no two performances ever being quite the same.  That is why the French say, "There are no good wines, only good bottles."  Gerald Asher

Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection -- and it offers a greater range of appreciation and enjoyment than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.  Ernest Hemingway

Food without wine is a corpse;  wine without food is a ghost.  United and well-matched, they are as body and soul, living partners.  Andre Simon

Wine is an endless treasure trove of fascination.  Wine is the only beverage in the world that draws us in intellectually, causes us to think about it, to ponder it, to question why it tastes the way it does.  Wine, it seems to me, is compelling not solely because it tastes good (though it surely does that) but because it appeals to the mind.  Karen MacNeil

In 1995, I predicted that first-growth Bordeaux would hit $10,000 per case in ten years;  well, they have done that and then some, and in a much shorter period.  This trend will only continue.  Unfortunately, many of these wines will become nothing more than museum pieces to be talked about and traded, but rarely drunk.  Robert Parker

One of the most gratifying aspects of being a wine critic is discovering those under-the-radar, superb wine bargains that taste as if they should cost two or three times the price but don't. ... The myth is that wines that cost $25 or less are worth just what you pay for them and are never terribly interesting.  This is totally untrue, and with work, one can unearth these small treasures that deliver seriously good wine at remarkably fair prices.  Robert Parker

On the 2005 vintage in France:  "If I had to give two words of advice to lovers of French wine today, scouting in any price range, they would be "O" and "five."  The 2005 vintage seemed exceptional at the time, virtually throughout France and especially in the classic regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy.  Now that we can judge the wines in bottle, it continues to shine brilliantly. ...  I still feel this is by far the greatest Bordeaux vintage I have been lucky enough to taste.  And it's the consistency right down to the petit chateaux and lowly AC Bordeaux level that is so exciting.  Jancis Robinson

It is well to remember that there are five reasons to drink wine:  the arrival of a friend; one's present or future thirst; the excellence of the wine; or any other reason.  Latin saying

Here's to the corkscrew -- a useful key to unlock the storehouse of wit, the treasury of laughter, the front door of fellowship, and the gate of pleasant folly.  W.E.P. French

He who loves not wine, women and song -- remains a fool his whole life long.  Johann Voss

The discovery of a wine is of greater moment than the discovery of a constellation.  The universe is too full of stars.  Benjamin Franklin

A sight of the label is worth 50 years experience.  Michael Broadbent

Anyone who tries to make you believe that he knows all about wines is obviously a fake.  Leon Adams

On drinking the wines of Bordeaux:  "The French drink them young, so a Socialist government won't take them.  The English drink them old, so they can show their friends cobwebs and dusty bottles.  The Americans drink them exactly when they are ready, because they don't know any better."  Anonymous

Wine is sure proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.  Benjamin Franklin

High-QPR Chardonnays

The following Chardonnays have been reviewed in this blog so far (from least expensive to most expensive):

2008 Bogle Chardonnay ($10)
2008 Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay ($12)
2008 Clos du Bois Chardonnay ($13)
2008 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay ($14)
2007 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay, "Robert Young Vineyard" ($25)
2007 Beringer "Private Reserve" Napa Valley Chardonnay ($32)

Note that the above prices are list prices.  All of these wines can usually be found on sale or for discounted prices at a variety of locations.  The best value that I have seen, from a purely economic or QPR perspective, was when K&L Wines had the Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay on sale for $6.99 to clear inventory.

The Beringer "Private Reserve" and the Chateau St. Jean "Robert Young Vineyard" Chardonnays are excellent wines of the highest quality with good QPR value (and represent high-QPR wines if you can get either wine at a 20% discount).

2007 Beringer "Private Reserve" Napa Valley Chardonnay

Beringer's "Private Reserve" Napa Chardonnay consistently receives rave reviews.  It was #47 on Wine Spectator's "Top 100 Wines" for 2008.

Robert Parker gives it 92 points:  "The 2007 Chardonnay Private Reserve (always one of California's top Chardonnays) has toned down the toasty oak component, exhibiting excellent nutty, honeyed, buttery notes of orange marmalade, brioche, and spice.  This wine is full-bodied, rich and pure.  Beringer continues to turn out an impressive array of wines, proving that a gigantic global operation can be focused on quality and character.  The Private Reserve final blend is always the finest wine of the group.  This has been proven time and time again at tastings."

The list price for this wine is $32, but you can usually find it for less than $25.  It's the most expensive Chardonnay on this blog, but with a price under $25, I think the quality-to-price ratio for this wine is very high.

2007 Beringer's Napa Valley Chardonnay

From the winemaker, "Almost half the fruit for the 2007 Napa Valley Chardonnay is from Bertha's Vineyard, which consistently delivers rich citrus and apple flavors.  Lemon meringue, pear, vanilla bean, and toasty oak notes make this a richly-layered wine from the start.

Robert Parker gives it 88 points,  "Another remarkable bargain.  It exhibits crisp notes of pineapples and oranges, zesty acidity, a little oak, and a fresh, medium-bodied finish."

The list price is $12, but you can easily find this wine for under $10 with a little searching at Costco, Safeway, BevMo, Trader's Joe, Total Wine, or your local wine shop.  For $10, this is a high-QPR wine IMO.

2007 Mas du Bouquet Vacqueyras

The 2007 Mas du Bouquet Vacqueyras is another excellent wine from Vacqueyras region of the Cotes du Rhone.  It gets 90 points from the International Wine Cellar:  "Deep ruby. Rich blackberry and kirsch aromas are complicated by candied flowers, anise and garrique, with a sexy note of cola coming up for air.  Sweet dark berry flavors coat the palate, firmed by fine-grained tannins that are quickly absorbed by the fruit.  This sweet, long wine is already very alluring."

And Robert Parker gives it 89-91 points:  "The general style is one of fruity, good quality, commercially-styled wines that represent very good value, and are immensely appealing.  All of the 2007s (Cotes du Rhone) are fruit-laden, lush and best drunk in their first 3-5 years of life.  The sumptuous Domiane Le Mas du Bouquet, 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, is aged in tank prior to bottling."

I've tasted this wine on two different occasions and was very impressed both times, a delicious wine IMO.  The list price is $16, but K&L Wines is selling it for $12.99.  I think it's a solid wine for the list price.  At the reduced price, I think this is a high-QPR wine.

Friday, January 29, 2010

2007 Paul Jaboulet "Parallele 45" Cotes du Rhone

The 2006 vintage of this wine received a Best Values designation from Wine Spectator.  From tasting last night, I think the 2007 vintage shows more fruit and structure.  From the winemaker:  "The wine has a deep color, with elegant and expressive aromas of red fruits and spices.  On the palate, the wine has a solid structure, ripe tannins, and a spicy character."

Another excellent, value-price 2007 Cotes du Rhone, IMO, composed of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.  The dominant flavor that comes through to me is ripe fruit and grape jam.  The list price is $13 but you can find it easily under $10 (Bottle Barn in Santa Rosa had it last weekend for $8.99).  For under $10 a bottle, I think this is a high-QPR wine.

2007 Grans-Fassian Estate Riesling Qba

This Riesling received 90 points from Wine Spectator:  "Iris and tuberose notes mingle with apple and nectarine in this delicate, detailed Riesling.  There's an undercurrant of mineral, and this gets support from the lively structure.  Fine length.  Drink now through 2018."  And according to Wine and Spirits,  "The round, ripe peach flavors are buttressed by brightly snappy acidity, feeling deliciously refreshing in its liveliness."  The list price is $20, but K&L Wines has it on sale for $9.99 which I think makes it a high-QPR wine.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

U.S. Market Flooded by Cheap Bulk Wine

The Press Democrat, my local newspaper, had an interesting article on the wine industry this morning.  The first paragraph read, "California wine shipments dropped in 2009 for the first time in 16 years as major U. S. wine companies looked overseas for the cheap wines that cash-strapped consumers increasingly crave."

Wines selling below $7 a bottle are experiencing a surge in demand while higher-end wines are seeing decreased sales, and demand has dropped sharply for the most expensive wines.  Jon Fredrikson, a wine industry analyst, commented, "It was ugly.  Many people I have talked to said it was the worst year in their history.  For small and medium-sized wineries, the year was brutal, as consumers shunned higher-priced wines."

Even though shipments from California decreased in 2009, U.S. wine consumption increased overall.  Market share has shifted from higher-priced wines to boxed wine and lower-priced wine.  Wine shipments have also increased substantially to Asia, especially to China and Southeast Asia.

Bulk wine shipments from overseas -- that turn into lower-priced wine and boxed wine -- have soared.  The largest U.S. wineries have been able to capitalize on the "trading-down" phenomenon by tapping into the globalized supply of cheap wine.  The amount of imported bulk wine increased 87% from 2008 to 2009.  Most of this wine was then bottled in the U.S. and sold as either boxed wine or 750 ml. bottles priced from $3.99 to $6.99.

Many traditional wineries thought that bulk wines couldn't compete, but the improving quality of these bulk wines is changing consumers' ideas about how much they need to spend to get a decent bottle of wine.  This trend of U.S. wineries outsourcing wine had been growing steadily in the past 10 years, but it exploded in 2009.

Occasionally, I'll try a bottle or two of the wine that normally sells for under $7 a bottle.  Some of it is surprisingly good IMO, especially for use as weekday table wine.  For example, I found the 2009 Mendoza Station Sauvignon Blanc ($6.99 at Total Wine, as discussed previously) to be very good.  And IMO the 2007 La Vieille Ferme "Cotes du Ventoux" Rouge (Cotes du Rhone) is a very good to excellent wine that happens to sell for under $7 (see prior post).

I've found most of the brands under $7, however, tend to be flat, one-dimensional, and lacking in structure or character.  But you only need to find one decent red wine and one decent white wine to use as regular table wines.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

2007 Comte Louis de Clermont-Tonnerre (Vieille Vignes), Cotes du Rhone-Villages

I tried this wine last night -- a nice, tasty Cotes du Rhone from the village of Cairanne and the Collection Alain Corcia -- made from very old vines.  Good fruit aromas and flavors with a structure somewhat more full-bodied than the 2007 Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone discussed previously and about equivalent body to the 2007 Delas St-Esprit.  My wife and I had a slight preference for the 2007 Delas St-Esprit.  The list price of this wine is $10.99 compared to $9.99 for the St-Esprit (at K&L Wines).  Try it and compare for yourself -- I think both wines offer excellent QPR.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

2005 Clos l'Eglise, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux

Chateau Clos l'Eglise is one of the stars in the relatively new Cotes de Castillon region of Bordeaux which is a few miles east of the elite St. Emilion appellation.  It received 89 points from Robert Parker:  "Now owned by Gerard Perse, this estate now makes attractive, elegant wines.  The 2005 Clos l'Eglise (70% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) exhibits notes of sweet cranberries, jammy black cherries and strawberries, crushed rocks and flowers.  With a dense purple color, medium body, loads of fruit, and a soft, round mouthfeel and finish, it can be enjoyed over the next 5-6 years."

The wine received 90-91 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar:  "Full ruby-red.  Ripe, complex nose melds cassis, kirsch, licorice, earth, mocha and truffle.  Ripe, sexy and sweet, with lovely energy and a youthfully cool quality to the dark fruit and mineral flavors.  Precide, powerful Cotes de Castillon wine, finishing with building tannins and considerable breadth."

This wine usually sells for $36-40, and it is currently offered for $19.99 at K&L Wines while supplies last.  With a price under $20, I think it is definitely a high-QPR wine.  It is a relatively big wine, with good structure and full tannins, that will cellar well for 5-6 years.  For drinking now, I would suggest decanting and letting it breath for a couple hours or more before serving.

Monday, January 25, 2010

2005 Chateau Belle-Vue, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux

The vineyard for Chateau Belle-Vue is planted with 26-year old vines, and it is located adjacent to famed Chateau Giscours and the elite Margaux appellation.  Robert Parker gives it 88 points, "One of the few Bordeaux wines to include Carmenere in the blend, Belle-Vue's final blend in 2005 is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, and 3% Carmenere.  It reveals more tannin along with great fruit, medium body, and plenty of character."

The list price is $26, and Bottle Barn currently has it on sale for $12.99.  If you don't mind moderately high tannin levels, Belle-Vue is an excellent choice for fairly-priced, high-quality Bordeaux.  This wine should age nicely for 6-8 years.  For drinking now, I suggest double-decanting and letting it breath for an hour or more before serving.  (I tasted it over the weekend and the tannins were quite noticeable even with double-decanting -- it was much softer and smoother the second day.)  With the list price of $26, I think it offers only average QPR.  For a sale price of $12.99, I think it becomes a high-QPR wine.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

High-QPR Sauvignon Blancs

Sauvignon Blanc has been my favorite white wine for a few years.  As noted in prior posts, there are many alternatives for high-QPR Sauvignon Blancs.  Most are medium-bodied and on the dry side, but each wine may be lighter or heavier in body and sweeter or drier in taste.  So far, 10 Sauvignon Blancs have been discussed in this blog.  Wines under $13 include:

2009 Mendoza Station Sauvignon Blanc ($6.99 from Total Wine)
2008 Bogle Sauvignon Blanc ($10)
2008 Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc ($12.99 list price, usually can be found for under $10 -- Bottle Barn currently has it for $9.99 a bottle)
2008 Kirkham Peak Sauvignon Blanc, Marlboro ($11.99 list price -- the K&L wine club price is $8.99)
2007 Domaine Chatelain Pouilly Fume (list price $22 -- K&L has it for $9.99 while supplies last)

IMO any of the above wines represent excellent quality for the (discounted) price.  See previous posts for specific comments on individual wines.  For wines between $13 and $20, the following wines have been discussed:

2008 Angeline Sauvignon Blanc (list price $14, usually $11-12 with discount)
2008 Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlboro ($13.99 at K&L)
2008 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlboro ($14.99 at K&L)
2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc ($14 list price, usually $11-12 with discount -- Bottle Barn currently has it for $9.99)
2008 Mill Creek Sauvignon Blanc ($19 list price, usually $15 with discount)

I think all of these wines offer very high quality-to-price ratios (with the discounted price).  My personal favorite is the 2008 Angeline Sauvignon Blanc.  But everyone's taste is unique -- I recommend that you try as many as you can find (at discounted prices) and develop your own QPR rankings.

For example, note that I could have picked up the 2008 Clos du Bois and the 2008 Chateau St. Jean for $9.99 during my trip to Bottle Barn today.  Combining those wines with the 2008 Angeline that I purchased for $11.20, the 2008 Kirkham Peak for $8.99 (I'm a K&L wine club member), the 2007 Domaine Chatelain for $9.99, and the 2009 Mendoza Station for $6.99 -- that gives me six solid Sauvignon Blancs to choose from.

The average price for the six wines is $9.53 a bottle.  Some of the wines might be suitable for weekday table wines (like the 2009 Mendoza Station and the 2008 Kirkham Peak).  You might find that you like the other wines better for pairing with fish, shrimp, crab, scallops, salmon, pasta, etc.  Purchasing two bottles each of the six wines would cost $114.40 -- not a large investment IMO for 12 bottles of good wine -- and you would have a selection of solid Sauvignon Blancs for a variety of meals.

2008 Kirkham Peak Sauvignon Blanc, Marlboro, New Zealand

Here is another Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.  When we had this wine for dinner last night, my wife said "What a beautiful floral aroma."  I also noticed some grapefruit and citrus on the nose and palate.  This wine is medium-bodied and very smooth with no harsh edges.

From K&L Wines, "Some floral aromas with perfumed aromas of gooseberries and lime zest.  This wine is crisp and clean on the palate with notes of grapefruit, lychee and minerals.  It has a nice roundness mid-palate with zingy acidity, limey flavors and a delicious mineral finish."

The list price is $11.99, but K&L has a "wine club price" of $8.99 for members of one of their five wine clubs.  For $11.99 I think the wine is very good QPR, but if the price is $8.99, then I think the QPR becomes excellent.

2008 Mill Creek Sauvignon Blanc

This wine was awarded a gold medal and judged to be Best of Class at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair in October 2009.  From the winery, "Pale straw in color with delightful notes of grapefruit and passion fruit with a touch of honeysuckle.  Richly flavored with ripe citrus and hints of tropical fruits.  Bright acidity with a medium body and lingering finish."

The list price of the 2008 Mill Creek Sauvignon Blanc is $19.00, but my local wine shop, Bottle Barn, has had it on sale for $15.  For a price of $15, I think the quality-to-price ratio is very good for an excellent Sauvignon Blanc.  Mill Creek is a small winery in Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley.